It was after an XML Users Group meeting in Dublin that we went for dinner with some of the other speakers (Tim, Lauren, Seán, and a few more; I forget where) and they persuaded me to start my blog. This soup was on the menu and it was the first time I’d had it, so I had to do my Stepford Wife act and get the recipe.
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Cut the squash in half lengthways, scrape out the seeds but try to leave the fronds that held them, as there's a lot of flavour there. Nuke with the seed-cup uppermost in the microwave on max for 20 minutes, until soft all through. Don’t spill the oil that gathers in the seed-cup.
Slice the onion very finely and fry gently in the butter in a big pot. Add a finely-sliced clove of garlic if you like it. Cook until soft and going golden. (see tip)
While this is all cooking, grill, roast, or dry-fry the hazelnuts. In a hot oven they should take about 10 minutes, but I find it easier to grill or dry fry them, but you must watch them and turn them every few seconds because at the slightest lapse of concentration they will blacken and scorch. If the phone or doorbell rings, ignore it: the nuts are more important.
Add the hazelnuts to the onion, pour in the stock and bring to the boil. Turn it down to simmer gently for about 10 minutes.
When the squash is done, carefully scrape out all the flesh and oil and add to the pot in chunks. Bring to the boil and cook gently for about 20 minutes to mix the flavours.
Liquidise it all in a blender, return it to the pot, and stir in the cream. Add nutmeg, salt, and pepper to your taste.
Serve with hot bread. You can freeze and keep this soup, assuming there’s any left…
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In some countries, iodine is added to salt for public health reasons. In Ireland we are an island with a large fish and dairy component to our diet, so our salt has no iodine added, but when I mention salt, feel free to substitute whatever kind of salt your requirements dictate.
For maximum flavour, fry very thinly sliced onions carefully in half oil, half butter over a medium heat in a thick-bottomed non-stick pan, stirring occasionally to stop them sticking. After about 8 minutes the onions will be soft, and after 12 minutes they will start to colour, going gold as the water content begins to evaporate, and the natural sugars get hot enough to start caramelisation, which gives a richer flavour. Take care to stir often and not burn the mixture. Full caramelisation can take hours, but 20 mins should be fine for most recipes.
Ireland is on GMT (UTC), one hour behind Central European, five hours ahead of Eastern, eight hours ahead of Pacific, and 8–12 hours behind Oz/NZ, depending on location. We love to get your calls, but at 4am our time we’re likely to be asleep.